Western Expedition Stop 17: Memphis TN

After driving from Chattanooga, TN across the country to Seattle, WA (via Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks) taking an Alaskan cruise and driving all the way back, we finally made it back to Tennessee! Not all the way home, though–our last stop is in Memphis, at the opposite end of the state.

On our quick visit, we saw Graceland and ate at the original Corky’s BBQ. Other interesting sites include the Peabody Hotel (that’s the one with the duck parade), Sun Studio, and several good museums. Let’s take a look.

Corky’s BBQ

I’ll say only two things about our hotel in Memphis. Number one, it felt like it was smack in the middle of a busy intersection. Like, you exited the highway and right into the parking lot. It was a little unnerving!

And number two, it was right down the street from the original Corky’s BBQ on Poplar Ave. This Memphis mainstay has now spread across the southeast–there’s one in Pigeon Forge, for instance. And you can even get it shipped to you, as indicated by the paper flag in my pulled pork sandwich.

The dry ribs were pretty good as well. I remember getting far too much food for not too much money, which is always nice.

If you’re in Memphis for BBQ, also check out Central BBQ and Cozy Corner–some think their ribs are better.

Graceland

OH, Graceland! For one, I was so happy that we were actually going to get to do a little something in Memphis besides crash in the hotel. (We were all super tired by this point!) And I think everyone should see Graceland at least once. It IS a tourist trap, and it means a little *too* much to some people–I confess I’m not much into hero worship. But Graceland is the kind of cheesy fun that I can really sink my teeth into.

In case you are unaware, Graceland was the home of Elvis Presley from 1957 until his death in 1977. It is still owned by his daughter and has been open as a museum since 1982.

The Experience

Visiting Graceland is a well-oiled machine (and some of the employees will treat you as no more than cogs in that machine.) After parking, you enter a large ticketing & shopping complex. A ticket to Graceland can be anything from the $41 mansion-only tour to a full VIP experience for $174!

After purchasing your ticket, you take the shuttle over to the mansion itself. Each person is given an iPad with headphones and a guided tour featuring John Stamos! At least, that’s what it was in 2015. It was terribly fun.

The House

While it is a “mansion” in its opulence, it’s really not a super big house. I mean, it’s large, but it just seems like a decent-sized family house with really, really decadent (for the 70’s) furnishings. Mirrors! Gold! Carpet in the kitchen! SO MUCH FABRIC! And I had this idea that the jungle room was in the basement, but no, all its tiki glory is just at the end of the hall. In the basement is more gold and mirrors, plus several TV’s.

The Grounds

Out back, there is a large horse paddock, a barn-like building with Elvis’s publicity offices, and two large exhibit buildings featuring a timeline of Elvis’s career with movie costumes and hit records lining the walls. You can trace Elvis’s style from early rockabilly to sequin tiger jumpsuits.

Elvis and his parents are all buried at Graceland in a remembrance garden to the side of the house. It’s here where I learned that Elvis had a twin brother that died in childbirth. Can you imagine if there were two of them??

Since my visit in 2015, they have added a new area featuring Elvis’s automobiles, and you can always add a tour through his private airplanes to any ticket.

Sun Studio

Almost as popular as Graceland, Sun Studio offers daily tours where you can see where Elvis and other hitmakers like BB King, Johnny Cash, and Jerry Lee Lewis recorded their albums. By all accounts, this is a very enjoyable guided tour, all for $14 and under.

Memphis
Sun Studio, via Wikimedia Commons

Free & frequent shuttles run between Sun Studio, Graceland, and the Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum for easy visiting of all three.

Memphis Museums

Besides the Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum, Memphis is home to several cultural and historical museums, particularly in the areas of music and civil rights. Check out the amazing National Civil Rights Museum in the Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King was killed and the Slave Haven Underground Railroad Museum. Or visit the Stax Museum of American Soul Music or the Blues Hall of Fame.

Memphis
National Civil Rights Museum, via Wikimedia Commons

The Belz Museum of Asian Art comes highly recommended, as well as the Withers Collection Museum & Gallery. There’s a children’s museum, a botanical garden and Dixon Gardens as well as the Mississippi River Museum on Mud Island.

The Peabody Hotel

I love to visit a nice hotel, even if it’s just the lobby. The Peabody Hotel in Memphis has the added attraction of a duck parade every day at 11 am and 5 pm! Apparently, these guys live in posh digs on the roof of the Peabody, then take the elevator (with the help of a parade master) down to the lobby to splash around in the lobby fountain for a bit.

Memphis
The Peabody Hotel, via wikipedia

This tradition apparently started back when some hunters left their live duck decoys in the lobby fountain while they continued their drinking at the hotel, and I guess the Peabody decided to keep it up for the last 90 years.

Besides the duck parade, the 150-year old Peabody Hotel boasts beautiful and historic spaces, a French restaurant (which does NOT serve duck/canard), a steakhouse, a bar in the lobby, and another cozy corner piano bar.

Rooms are, of course, nicely appointed and have received a bathroom and soft-goods upgrade in time for the Peabody’s 150th anniversary in 2019. Rooms start at $199 and go all the way up to the Presidential Suite from $1399. Of note are the ultra-romantic Romeo & Juliet Suites with a spiral staircase leading up to a loft bedroom so you can recreate your own balcony scenes.

More in Memphis

Of course, Memphis is a big city with its full complement of fine restaurants, diners, parks, plus rich history from the mighty Mississippi River to its modern musicians and artists. I fully realize I’m hitting the barest of highlights here. As with any place, the more you dig, the more treasure you’ll find. Explore and see what makes Memphis special for you!

Finally, Home

We dipped down into Alabama for the drive home and finally made it back to Chattanooga 21 days after we had left it! And we saw so much! Too much for that time frame, really. I’m trying to lean more towards slow travel.

I had a special surprise when I got home–my friends had decorated my house for my arrival with a welcome banner and flowers! It was an incredibly sweet way to be welcomed home. I LOVE to travel, but sometimes the best part is coming back home.

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    Sara Beth Written by:

    We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm, and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open. – Jawaharlal Nehru

    2 Comments

    1. Betsy Wade
      March 29, 2019
      Reply

      Great article! The Elvis Presley things were really neat!

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